LE Ngoc Ha Thu, 23, is an award-winning sustainable fashion designer based in Hanoi, Vietnam. LE Ngoc Ha Thu graduated with a Higher National Diploma in Fashion and Textiles and now works as a freelance fashion designer and teaching assistant at her alma mater.
“I first came across sustainable fashion in late 2014, after I stumbled upon the book 'Eco Fashion' by Saas Brown. At the time I was in High School and was a member of a local fashion club while also participating in environmental activism.”
For LE Ngoc Ha Thu home country became an inspiration for a sustainable change. “Vietnam is among the world’s five biggest textile exporter and producers. It plans to switch orientation from processing to producing by building textile mills, spinning plants and dyeing facilities.”
“With grossly fouled rivers in China and the Rana Plaza factory collapse as alarming examples for our citizens and environment, it is crucial that the nation does not make the same mistake. I am determined to prove that a sustainable apparel industry is entirely possible in my home country."
While working on the new project, LE Ngoc Ha Thu following the philosophy that “good things take time” and “doing less, but better.”
As a young designer, LE Ngoc Ha Thu believes that she has an advantage of understanding what new generations, Millennials and Gen Z, desire.
“I hope that my future collections will address new-found problems and cater for marginalized groups which were ignored in the past. For example, I’m working on a project which would provide an online, LGBT friendly made-to-measure tailoring service. The measurement will be processed with technology and the customer doesn’t need to meet face-to-face with our team.”
The designer thinks it’s a sensible approach during the pandemic and would benefit LGBT customers who are uncomfortable with their bodies when it comes to measurements.
As well as the new project, LE Ngoc Ha Thu designs luxurious streetwear. The designer describes her designs as electric, raw and radiant. “I mix classic American workwear with East Asian aesthetics by combining different features, silhouettes and techniques.”
While working on the new collection LE Ngoc Ha Thu likes to begin with herself. “I'm usually logical, rational and in control of my feelings, so fashion becomes my emotional outlet.”
At the start of the creative process, the designer likes to ask herself what she is feeling and thinking. “Sometimes I use my creations for personal commentary on different subjects such as politics, socio-environmental issues and the human conditions.”
LE Ngoc Ha Thu collections consist of 70% zero-waste pattern cutting. The designer aims to give her garments a long life by using sturdy and durable finish. “Garments are cut to fit well the average Asian figure, both men and women which encourages the trade between friends.”
LE Ngoc Ha Thu source secondhand clothing, end-of-rolls, cut-and-sew production waste. The fabrics are plant-dyed using natural ingredients which are not harmful for the water pollution such as indigo, turmeric and yam roots.
“I also consider customer care. I use fabrics that could be washed easily for everyday items like T-shirts and underwear, while heavier textile that requires more rigorous cleaning for outerwear. It will only need to be laundered once every 3-6 months.”
Two years ago, LE Ngoc Ha Thu organized a series of online events in collaboration with other activists for the annual Fashion Revolution Week.
“We’ve organized 'The True Cost' film screening, workshops on decluttering one's wardrobe, teaching practical skills like mending, simple patchwork and embroidery and how to differentiate different kinds of fabrics. We also ended with a swapping event where participants brought their clothes to swap among others.”
Recently LE Ngoc Ha Thu also won the Redress Design Award. It’s the world’s largest sustainable fashion design competition which aims to educate emerging fashion designers around the world about sustainable design theories and techniques.
“These last few weeks with the Redress Design Award have been such a nourishing and beneficial experience and joining the Timberland and VF teams is going to be an honour. They are such an amazing brand when it comes to sustainability. I am ready to learn everything I can from them.”
LE Ngoc Ha Thu believes that events like this help to drive the growth towards a circular fashion system.
The sustainable fashion designer is looking forward to collaborate with Timberland, develop a new collection for her brand and potentially getting a BA and Masters degree in ethical fashion.
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