Photo Credit: Moa Thorneby
Hollyann Tullet is a fashion graduate from the University of Brighton. Hollyann started her journey with a dressmaking apprenticeship at a women’s centre, My Sister’s House. Not only Hollyann learned how to pattern cut, it allowed her to help local women in need by designing up-cycled garments.
“This gave me the base to get a place studying Fashion Design and Business at Brighton where I took time to work in the industry alongside the course.”
Hollyann finished her graduate collection “Where The Wild Women Are” in June and have been working on freelance projects since.
From a young age Hollyann was intrigued with how limitless clothing can be.“I was obsessed with the catwalk coverage pages in my mums Grazia Magazine and loved how there were never ending innovations season upon season. Like many designers I must credit an infatuation with McQueen from a young age for also drawing me into fashion.”
Hollyann’s garments are minimalistic, the designer likes to focus on technique and craftsmanship. While working on the new project, Hollyann begins with the concept and collecting imagery.
“This is the most exciting part of the process for me as I love forming the ‘character’ or ‘spirit’ of a collection. I then consider target market or briefing, experiment with fabrics and shapes on the mannequin. From here it goes back and forth and is refined until I am happy with the final outcome.”
Hollyann is inspired by women, music and how both intersect with clothing. “I love looking through archives, especially those of Bob Mackie and Mugler.”
Hollyann always find that the ideas she loves the most form when she is enjoying the process. She believes that change of space or physical action can help to clear the head for the new projects.
While working on the graduate collection Hollyann used wool suiting, silver hardware and a lot of fringe. Hollyann also experimented with leather tooling which was a new technique for her.
“It involved imprinting patterns onto leather using handheld tool. Handcraft is so important to me as it gives pieces such a sentimental edge.”
Hollyann had a work experience as a pattern cutting intern at Ralph & Russo. “I was surrounded by such talented pattern cutters, designers, seamstresses and managers who were so highly skilled in each of their specialisms. I was exposed to the luxury market and how they go above and beyond for their clients in the London atelier and Paris. I learnt a lot about the high end of fashion here, as well as the workings of a large atelier and what skills I need to progress.”
Hollyann also was a couture intern at Ruth Milliam. It was the experience which allowed the designer to develop the speed at hand sewing. “RMC was fairly new at the time so it was really intriguing to see the process of a new company, how to attract new clients and adapt for bride requests.”
As well as the work experience Hollyann won the Bridal Buyers Award. Once Hollyann was shortlistes she had a couple of months to perfect the dress, source more vintage lace and work on the embroidery. It was a time consuming process but it allowed the designer to develop the skills.
“I bought the vintage lace from a woman named Lyn Lundie who used to have a bridal brand of her own in the 70s. Each applique was sewn by hand and then worked into. The awards night was incredible and I got to meet a lot of inspiring people from the bridal sector including Ian Stuart.”
Although Hollyann worked in the bridal industry, it made her realise how she wants to try something different and don’t focus just on the niche market. “I appreciate the craftsmanship in bridal but there are a lot of techniques and designs styles I still want to explore that are a lot less feminine. I also want my work to reach and make widespread number of people feel good, rather than limiting my work to only those who chose to get married.”
For Hollyann it would be a dream to collaborate with Cathy Hahn one day. Cathy Hahn is a costume designer and stylist who has worked with Post Malone and Orville Peck.
“There is a lot of Western style in her work which I of course am a huge fan of. She really makes incredible use of a range of artists and designers all with different craft specialisms to pull together looks that are so special and different to everything else we see on a stage or music video.”
Hollyann would also love to create an outift for Grace Jones one day. “Some of my most favourite memories are being with family and friends whilst seeing her performance live. Grace is such a powerful icon. She brings such fun energy to her shows, being able to mirror and enchance that through a garment I created would be a dream.”
At the moment Hollyann is creating commissioned pieces for a few magazines and music artists. “I am looking to continue with this as it is my favourite thing to do!”
The designer also aims to launch a range of made to order, ethically manufactured womenswear pieces within the next year. Hollyann wants to create clothes for all body types, empowering the wearer and the garment workers behind the scenes at the same time.